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How To Archive Your Music CDs Into High Quality Flacs

Posted February 1st 2010 by in archive

How To Archive Your Music Cd’s Into High Quality Flac’sAnyone who’s interested in music by definition has a huge collection of CD’s, and when I started university I had to think of a better solution than lugging my entire collection around with me. Unbeknownst to me, when I first did it my solution was to archive my music onto my computer in .flac (free lossless audio codec) format, luck points to me! There’re many ways of doing this, some of which are better than others… here’s how:

Everyone in the world (well at least in the parts of it which I’m interested in) have heard of MP3′s, but not everyone in the world knows that these files are ‘lossy‘. This basically means when you rip your CD to the computer it removes some data that it deems inaudible (as well as some other fancy jiggerypokery to optimise the file size). The thing is, that the loss of information does have quite a noticeable impact on the quality, which is no problem at all when you’re listening to some music on the bus – but say you scratch your CD, it’s not going to sound as good through your Hi-Fi as the CD did. Enter [Stage Right]: (Wow I’ve written less than 5 articles and I’m already repeating myself, this doesn’t bode well!) the flac file which has the advantage of not losing all the nice detail from your music files.

Flac files may be ‘lossless‘, but they are compressed (if your interested in this kind of thing you can read about it here). Basically they’re a complete representation of what’s on the disc but take up the smallest amount of space possible. However, no matter how good the file type is, as any audiophile will tell you, music can only sound as good as its source. The source is the initial bitstream containing the raw music data supplied by the CD reader and much to my surprise, I found out that even this differs in quality. Traditionally, audio nuts have got around this by buying some very expensive CD players, there is however an alternative (see, I told you reading this blog was worthwhile!). The solution? Use a piece of software called EAC (Exact Audio Copy) which is downloadable for free from www.exactaudiocopy.de

Right out of the box EAC is configured to rip your CD’s as accurately as possible, from re-ripping certain parts to checking the result against an on-line database, the whole system is very well thought out. You can even fiddle with the advanced settings to try and better the result but in my opinion it’s not worth the hassle. All you need to worry about is setting the compressed option to ‘flac’ and decide how you’d like the album info to be written to files (found in the normal settings). Google is your friend if you’d like to find out about improving the default setting, there’s no one website which has all the info.

And that’s it, you’ve now got a solution to backing up and archiving your music in the best possible way… get ripping! Just to warn you it will be a long term effort, EAC is tremendously accurate but this does cause it to be quite slow – to the tune of up to 40 minutes a CD! You only have to do it once though and it’s thoroughly worth it in my opinion.

So what can you do with your new music archive? Well I play mine through a Squeezebox as a replacement CD player, you can read my article about it called Wirelessly Stream Music With The Squeezebox Duet. I also use it to create my MP3′s – you can easily convert flac’s to any format you like using another free program called Foobar. Have you archived all of your music yet, are you happy with MP3s or are you planning to get your rip on after reading this article? Let me know in the comment section below.

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7 Responses to “How To Archive Your Music CDs Into High Quality Flacs”

  • Ste Quinn says:

    Hey, I know that great audio fidelity is what we are aiming for but I’m in the position where I don’t have the memory or the time to rip all my CD’s using a FLAC encoder. I was wondering if you knew about any of the other choice of encoders like LAME which is the meant to be the best MP3 encoder out there.

    Is there still a considerable difference between these betterly encoded MP3s and FLAC. Also what do you think of Ogg Vorbis, the open source encoder and is there any point of FLAC if I’m just using the DAC in my lappy?

    Regarding your comments about EAC do you agree with the people who say the 0.9 beta4 version is better than the latest? and how come there’s no mention of the main rival converter dBpoweramp?

    What do you think of the CDex which offers paranoia settings which you obviously know is not secure-mode ripping. Iv also heard about a program called AccurateRip, which I’ve never used, but it sounds a lot like Secure mode, doesn’t it? It’s compatible with both dBpowerAMP and EAC but I can’t find any detailed reviews of it.

    • Hey, thanks for your comments, nice to see some great questions.

      In terms of not having time and space to rip using a FLAC Encoder I should warn you that its not the encoding that takes the time. EAC and others rip to a wav format first and then encode. The encoding process only takes a fraction of the time. However if you are going to rip to mp3 you may want to look into using a different program, or ripping at a lower initial quality to save time.

      Is there a considerable difference between the better MP3′s and flac? Short answer yes, in my opinion using flac really does make a difference. However in response to your question about using the DAC in your laptop, I don’t believe you’ll notice any real difference from its output. However the reason I suggest ripping to flac is that once you’ve done it you then have the best possible result. Say you were to modify your music system in a couple of years to something that would benefit from flac files it would be a shame to have to re-rip. Obviously though if you simply don’t have the storage space and time, lame encoded mp3s are a decent compromise.

      I’m ashamed to say I don’t have much experience with Ogg Vorbis so can’t help you much with that question. Rest assured I now plan to research it further, I’ll let you know my findings.

      Do I agree with people who say 09. beta4 is better than the newest? You’ve got me again on this one, I’m not sure of the differences. I found settings which I liked a while ago and haven’t changed since. I imagine that its the kind of thing that would only bother people who are massively into getting the ultimate results, whether they can hear the difference or not. Not something I’d advise anyone worry about.

      Why do I mention EAC rather than dBpoweramp? Well I’ve used both and found the results to be very similar. I’ve chosen EAC simply due to structure, for whatever reason I’m more comfortable with the interface. I suggest you do the same and just use whichever you’re most comfortable with. Unless you’re far more into improving that final 0.001% than I am I don’t think your choice will worry you in terms of quality.

      Using CDex with paranoia probably goes back to my previous statement about compromising quality for speed of ripping. EAC’s secure method (for those who don’t know this basically refers to reading sectors of the CD more than once for greater error detection) due to its very nature takes longer than CDex’s method would so its possibly something you may want to look into if you’re under time constraints. Is it as good? No, but the differences probably wouldn’t be noticeable through your laptop.

      AccurateRip is a fantastic idea. I’m not sure of the details but it basically checks your rips against an on-line database and uses the data to configure your CD drive to correct errors as it adds. It also checks files for consistency every time you rip. Can I give you a detailed review? Probably not though I certainly think its worth while, even if only to prevent you from having to check that a file has ripped correctly every time.

      Apologies for a rather rushed response, have an extremely early start tomorrow. I hope I’ve managed to answer a few of your questions. I think the main thing to take from this is that you can take this too far. In my opinion its definitely worth doing what’s easy to improve the quality. The obscure stuff is all very up in the air and doesn’t necessarily make much of a difference anyway. Good luck with your archiving :)

      • Ste Quinn says:

        Well done Ben your brother is very impressed with the speed and accuracy of your response and has decided that this website idea will be a great success. He is also surprised at your knowledge on this subject, very impressive for a coding monkey :)

        • Haha, I was wondering how someone could have such a broad range of knowledge but not know some of the things asked. Very goood.

          Would like to point out that I’m only a code monkey when someone pays me to be, I’m normal most of the time!

  • Clive Randall says:

    Hi
    I was doing this with my CDs my making lossless WMA files through Media Player and ran into a problem. I had previously ripped them before to a medium quality bit rate. I found some CDs recognise they have been ripped before and either pop straight out of the drive (eg Taylor Swift – Fearless) or record clickings over some tracks and mix the names up (That's what I call Music 74) [Ok, both are my daughters - but even her music deserves archiving]. Is there a way round this?

    Clive

    • Hey, good to hear from you, apologies for the slow reply, I’m mid Easter holiday relocation. So much stuff on the train… you’d have been impressed.

      Hmm interesting questions, I can’t say I’m the most experienced with Media player but I’ve a couple of ideas you may want to try out… can’t promise anything though.

      Re the popping out of the drive – You may want to try going to options, then the rip music tab and see whether the “Eject CD after ripping” button is selected. If it is, deselecting it will hopefully sort out the problem.

      With regards to the incorrect name choices – You’re probably best off checking the names of tracks when you first put in the CD to see if they’re correct. If they’re wrong right click and they’ll be an option to look up media info. It should allow you to select a different set of data for the track names.

      Clicks over the tracks… hmm can’t say I’m totally sure on that one. Are they regular? Or does it sound more like the CD is damaged? If its the later using a program like EAC might help as it’s good at ironing out errors. Regular clicks and I’m drawing a blank I’m afraid. Is it happening with lots of different CD’s or only for a couple?

      Hope some of that helps, I can’t say I’ve had any of the problems myself so it’s all guess work I’m afraid. Good luck with the rest of your archiving, and doing your daughter music should certainly be done. I’ve done my version of “Now that’s what I call music 47″ from back in the day!

      • Ollie Norman says:

        Heads up I’m dyslexic so this might not make a whole lot of sense!

        I think your problem (the clicking in your track) could be to do with Cactus Data Shield protection. This is to prevent you from copying CDs, some times the clicks only only occur on certain lossless rips. you could try other formats like FLAC, WavPack, ALAC/Apple Lossless.

        The other reason for your problem could be that your hearing the effects of jitter which is a time based error.

        The problem occurs because the CD specification doesn’t require block-accurate addressing. CD’s are split into blocks of 12 samples, and when the actual audio data is fed into the buffer the block data is being taken from the sub code and stored in a different place. It is this separation of the audio and the block information which means that the CD player is not able to identify the start of each block. Its only a small inaccuracy but if the program has to pause while the data is written to disk and then start again where it left off, it doesn’t know the exact position where it stopped. The extraction could start a few samples early or late resulting in doubling of samples or missing samples. The effect of this sounds like tiny clicks throughout the track.

        To correct this all you need to do is find an extractor with jitter correction (EAC)I’m not sure whether this program will automatically select jitter correction when it checks your drive or it’ll just be a check box – but I’m sure you’ll be able to figure that out for yourself :)

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